The Best of the Rest

Every now and then, your intrepid culinary guide (me) gets the offer of a few schillings to write restaurant reviews for other publications. Not wanting to overlap the online and printed-page worlds, I’ve held back from covering restaurants in both places. Nevertheless, I realize that many of you don’t like to get your hands dirty by picking up printed pages, or don’t live in the geographic area in which said printed-page publications are available. To remedy this gap in restaurant knowledge, I give you a quick rundown on some of the area’s newest, and in some cases best, eateries not yet mentioned on this here ‘Rag.

Maritime Seafood & Grill- ****
Owner/Chef Morgan Song has created a dining experience that immediately needs to be considered among the best in the region, joining such familiar names as Biba, The Kitchen, Waterboy, and Mulvaney’s B&L. High priced and high class, this place sticks out in an otherwise depressing Carmichael strip mall on the corner of Marconi and Fair Oaks. Go there, now.

Maritime Seafood & Grill
6440 Fair Oaks Blvd
Carmichael, CA 95608
http://www.maritimeseafoodsac.com

Mehran Restaurant & Catering- ***1/2
Some people call it cursed, some call it blessed, and even more call it simply the worst restaurant location in all of Sacramento. Yes, that’s right, I’m talking about 2333 Fair Oaks Boulevard. On a frontage road, tucked behind a dry cleaner, wedged between shopping destinations, nearly hidden from view, this ridiculous location shomehow manages to find tenants year after year.

This Indian/Pakastani jewel does a damn fine job. Each dish was expertly prepared and the servers were gracious in answering any questions we had about the menu.

2333 Fair Oaks Blvd
Sacramento

Formoli’s Bistro- ***
On first glance, the small interior presents well–sleek bar, eight mid-sized tables, angular decorations, and modern art on the walls. The most striking element of the interior is the open kitchen. While some chefs give diners a small, angled glimpse into their kitchens, Aimal Formoli sets up his mise en place right out in the open. Small plates, entrees, desserts, mid-range prices. Try the sweet potato “frites” and the scallops.

3260 J St (in the same strip as Club Raven and Thai Palace)

Frank Fat’s- ***
The original. The standard bearer. The old man of the Fat’s restaurant empire. It still stands up.

The sampan clams ($16.95), whole clams with jalapenos, garlic, ginger, and onions, were a personal favorite, although some members of the group weren’t thrilled about having to wrench the tiny clams from out of their shells with chopsticks. The honey walnut prawns ($17.50) didn’t disappoint. As probably the most famous dish to come out of Fat’s kitchen, it stood up to expectations, perhaps even exceeding them. The salt and pepper shrimp and asparagus ($15.95) disappeared as soon as the plate hit the table, one friend saying that if she could prepare asparagus that way (lightly battered and fried) she could get even her young sons to eat it. The clear favorite of the whole table, though, was the ridiculously rich and flavorful General Tsao’s chicken. Fried chicken chunks swimming in a dark, syrupy, aromatic sauce, with hints of ginger, garlic, and green onion, and served with emerald green broccoli florettes, the dish won over everyone. One friend even remarked, “I usually don’t like bater fried chicken. I like this.”

806 L Street, Sacramento
http://www.fatsrestaurants.com