Masullo: Another Reason to Eat Out More Often

Calling Masullo a pizzeria is like calling the Taj Mahal a grave marker.  Ok, maybe that’s too grandiose. How bout this, calling Masullo a pizzeria is like calling Ron Jeremy an actor.  Sure, it’s technically true, but it really doesn’t tell you all you need to know about the “Hedgehog,” or Masullo for that matter.

Yes, in most tellings, Masullo will be referred to as a pizzeria, but it’s much more.  The majority of the menu is made up of small, crispy, elegant pies, true; but the rest of the menu should not be ignored.  Beautiful salads, house-made pastries, top-notch ingredients, attentive service, modern design, dogs and cats sleeping together–it all works, it’s all tops, it’s all recommended. 

Chef Robert Masullo manages to turn roasted vegetables into and event, a pear tart into a celebration, a totally nondescript storefront on a forgotten strech of old road across the street from a cemetery into a light, airy, hip dining destination.  But, what does he turn a pizza into?  If pizzas are going to dominate the menu, then they better be something special, right?

While there are no transformative properties in Masullo’s pizzas, there is a heap of fine ingredients, a hefty amount of skill, and a pinch of individuality in his pies.  The price point on the on each pizza (which is advertised for one, but is a decent meal for two) ranges from $8 to $14.  Throw a $5 plate of roasted vegetables and a reasonably priced bottle of wine, and you have a luxury dining experience for a recession-era price. 

Speaking of the recession era, just a quick note to all of us who are feeling the hurt of the market.  Sure, things are tight, but they’re just as tight for the folks who are trying to sell you food.  Check the Bee and the News and Review for discounts, coupons, and specials that you can take advantage of. Supporting local businesses, supporting local employees, and not succumbing to the panic can help keep your community whole.  The press doesn’t like to focus on this, but the majority of us have no fear of losing our jobs, are not any poorer than we were a week ago, or a month ago, or a year ago.  Don’t let local businesses fail due to fear.  Ok, I’ll put away my soapbox now.

Masullo-2711 Riverside Blvd, Sacramento

Food ***1/2 Service *** Atmosphere***

6 thoughts on “Masullo: Another Reason to Eat Out More Often”

  1. I concur. Best pizza I have had in Sacramento, and better than Zachary’s or Little Star and my other Bay Area favorites too. Everything I had here was sublime. The mushrooms, eggplant, cheese, crust, everything … mouthwatering.

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  2. Sac-eats…I think that I shall make a trip on over…I enjoy the reviews. But I sometimes wonder with your power of prose…your gift of gab…your wit and wisdom…(ok I am done with that) you could make a taco bell in Iowa sound wonderful.

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  5. You’re on the money with Masullo. It’s right around the corner from my house too–how lucky am I? And now they have an awning, so it’s easier to find. Just park at Marlon’s Auto Body and don’t forget to order a spicy root beer with your pizza. Mmmmmm.

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  6. Sac-eats, you jinxed me with this statement:

    “but the majority of us have no fear of losing our jobs”

    Sincerely,
    The now-laid-off RunnerGirl

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