Even with TVs, radios, and all other media trying their hardest to remind us constantly of the sour economy — I mean really Betty Crocker recipe book, is it necessary to try to come up with a “cheaper” carrot cake recipe for hard times? — there are always things to celebrate. In this case, we’re going to celebrate some good new eats.
Magpie Caterers Market and Cafe– Opened just last week in the barely finished new retail row at 14th and R, Magpie already has fans. Count me as one. Picking up where nearby neighbor Dad’s Sandwich Shop leaves off, Magpie goes for the slightly higher scale ingredients, preparations, and prices. The grilled ham and cheese is stuffed with imported camembert and shaved Niman Ranch ham, the roast beef with melted blue cheese and imported mustard. The salads feature elegantly tidy mixes of baby greens and baby breads prompting baby cooing noises from the customers who eat them. Whether you’re a dive devotee or a dining room diva, this place just flat out rocks. I mean really rocks, rocks like the Flintstones, rocks like granite, rocks like Rock of Ages being performed at Red Rock by Rockapella.
What else do I love about this place? Fresh baked cookies and goodies, for one. Latcham wines as well. Local micros on tap to boot. To top it all off, the casually hip staff seems to bridge that thorny divide between attentive and annoying. They seem friendly, genuine, and dedicated. Dinner’s an option as well now, with their hours going to ’til 9 and selected dinner entrees replacing the more casual lunch menu that most staties and nearby workforce soldiers will come to treasure.
There are simply places that do what they do very, very well. In the limited time they’ve been open, Magpie appears to be one of those places.
De Vere’s Irish Pub– The curse of the Irish may traditionally be their love of the sauce, but the curse of Irish pubs outside of Ireland tends to be their complete lack of sincerity. Be it in the Gaslamp of San Diego, the Soma or SF, or midtown Sacramento, Irish pubs always seem like a gimmick rather than a true expression of the neighborhood gathering point they’re supposed to be. Maybe it’s the locally apathetic, tatted-up servers one typically finds at American pubs, or the need for these places to be sexually charged party spots with digital jukeboxes and laser shows, or the somewhat pandering collection of football jerseys and Guinness ads on the walls, Irish pubs just don’t come off as anything other than average bars with crappy food all over the US. Somehow, De Vere’s has avoided the curse.
Despite the fact that they’re surrounded on nearly every side by wankeriffic hangouts of the party pod people, and despite being housed in a basically brand new building, and despite having no real neighborhood nearby to draw from, De Vere’s manages to get it right: sincere, honest, genuine pub grub and strong drink without flair or frills.
I chalk it up to the owners, who, it turns out, are actually Irish, which helps, and who aren’t part of some monolithic entertainment chain, which adds credibility, and who have awesome accents, which seals the deal. The fact that they’re also putting out probably the best fish and chips in the city doesn’t hurt either. Well done De Vere’s.
Hot Italian– Could anything have lived up to nearly two years of hype? I mean, let’s get real here. It seems like this place has been “coming soon” since the days of the Bear Flag Republic. No matter what they served or did, Hot Italian was not going to be worth that kind of wait. They could have had the “Sophia Loren nipple slip pizza” or special Bob Guccione private rooms where you can get your own hot Italian served to you (wink wink, if you know what I mean) and they still would have fallen short of the buildup.
Yet, everything H.I. does it does well. The pizzas are tasty and well prepared — if maybe a little skimpy — the salads are pleasant, the gelato is delicious, which is expected coming from Naia gelato in Berkeley. They have Peroni on tap and Italian wines on the menu. There is nothing wrong there.
I guess the one thing that stands out is the rather bizarre interior with its clothing shop/scooter emporium, gelato counter, wine bar, and warehouse-chic trappings. Of course, to be fair, it seems that the two-year renovation project isn’t quite done, and that the place is still a work in progress. All the same, I’m not sure for how much longer I can cut a place slack that’s already been under construction since Sid Ceasar was culturally relevant. I’ll chalk this one up in the “good effort” category and stop piling on. I guess I’m in a good mood.
Magpie Catering and Deli- 14th & R Streets, Sacramento,
De Vere’s Irish Pub- 16th & L Streets, Sacramento
Hot Italian- 16th and Q Streets, Sacramento
The Sac Rag 
I was unimpressed with Hot Italian. Loud, long wait for food, expensive for a little thin pizza and a friend’s calzone came out not fully cooked. I’m sure it’s fine for some, but I don’t have any need to go back.
Everything about Deveres is good, except that they charge similar amounts for drinks as their “wankerific” neighbors. Props to them as well for closing down the street for St. Patrick’s day. Looks like they’ve started a good trend in town.
Friends and I loved magpie for lunch. Ham and brie was delicious, veggie sandwich sure looked good, beet salad was also very good. Certainly wasn’t the cheapest in town for lunch, but it sure was tasty. It feels like such a good fit for R street as well.
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Good call on Magpie! We have used them at work for several years now, and they always offer up great fare! I am very excited they are expanding, as it shows that where there is quality, people will show.
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