Even if Albert and Gloria Kutternig didn’t make some of the most decadent morsels this side of Vienna, their story would still be worth telling. You see – Albert is a world-class pastry chef trained in the finest kitchens in Austria; his wife, Gloria, is a globetrotting ballerina originally from the Philippines. The pair met in Venezuela, traveled the world, got hitched in Austria, and wound up settling down in the quiet college town of Davis, California. If this were a human interest piece, there would be more than enough interest to go around. But alas, this is a culinary article, and this amazing pair isn’t being covered for the sweetness of their tale, but rather the sweetness of their pastries.
Konditorei Austrian Pastry Cafe in Davis creates treats in the Austrian tradition, which is quite different from the American tradition. Gone are the syrupy sweet confections, buttercream frostings, corn syrup, and dense cakes that we come to expect from the neighborhood bakery. Instead, these continental delicacies are crafted from light – almost ethereal – creams, sugars, fillings, sauces, and sweet cheeses.
Besides pastries, Chef Kutternig also crafts cakes, tortes, and breads for your daily consumption (if you happen to have the metabolism of Michael Phelps), or for special occasions (if you’re everyone else). For the most special of occasions, Kutternig can put together a cake of such beauty that it would be a crime to eat it. A quick peek at his photo album of wedding cakes brings tears to the eyes of the viewer, not because of the happy union of two loving people, but because the thought of these gorgeous works of art being carved into pieces and eaten is heart-wrenching.
On a recent visit, I was treated to a sampling of some of Konditorei’s finest offerings. All of the offerings were delightful, but a few really stood out. The poppy seed coffee cake with cherries was rich, tart, and luscious. The plum tart, a perfectly browned crust surrounding a subtly sweet plum filling made from locally grown plums, was truly memorable. And, of course, the apple strudel was perfect – delicate, dreamy, and difficult to improve upon.
Each piece of pastry was a thing of precision, a piece of architectural perfection, a feast for the eyes as well as the gullet. Several pieces were served with an unobtrusive but delicious vanilla sauce that, if anything, actually heightened the flavors being offered.
And because I couldn’t very well leave without trying a few slices of cake, I tried a few slices of cake. Each and every one was a combination of light creams and finely worked chocolates, or wispy creations of sugar and fruit, or intricately worked constructions that seemed to sprout from the arts of science, baking, and alchemy.
Konditorei’s Davis location is slightly outside of the vibrant corridor of downtown, on East 5th Street. A bit separated from other businesses, owners Gloria and Albert take advantage of the space they have, offering ample parking, patio seating, and a large dining room filled with the lilting strains of Strauss and other Austrian composers. It’s a treat for the eyes, ears, and tummy.
After a visit to the Kutternig’s pastry shop, you’ll agree with a very wise man who said, “Life is uncertain; eat dessert first.”
Konditorei Austrian Pastry Cafe
2710 East 5th Street, Davis
530.758.1331
http://www.konditoreidavis.com
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The Sac Rag 
