Roseville Restaurant Report Part I: The Greenhouse

The Greenhouse serves no green beerThe Greenhouse is fine organic dining. The Greenhouse is casual comfort food. The Greenhouse is a brewpub. Somehow, all of these statements are true.

Let’s start with the brewpub aspect of The Greenhouse. Brewmaster Kevin Pratt has put together an absolutely stunning lineup of organic beers. Brewed mostly in the English tradition, each beer a textbook example of its type. The brown ale is a perfect brown ale, the blonde a crisp brew, and the stout a rich, creamy, decadent beer made beautifully in the British vein.

I don’t wish to in any way sound conditional in my praise for these beers. They are absolutely brilliant. In a recent visit, I was joined by a group of self-proclaimed beer snobs and all in attendance were either mightily impressed or simply blown away. Kevin is doing some fine work up in Roseville, and The Greenhouse should be a destination for the beer alone. Bring a growler.

As far as the food goes, it’s still a work in progress, but pretty damn quick progress it is. The Greenhouse originally started with a 100% organic, French-inspired, up-dining menu. Here’s the problem, unless you’re cooking on a really small scale and in a seriously high-priced neighborhood, 100% organic cooking can present some financial challenges. Basics like organic olive oil, organic butter, and organic spices, are all well above the standard price point, so far above in fact that unless you’re charging nearly double what the next guy charges, you’re probably not going to be in the black anytime soon.

So the original chef was sacked, a new crew brought on, and the menu tweaked a bit. The result? Damn good grub. Sure you’re not going to find plum glazed hamachi cheek on a bed of forbidden black rice risotto with a kumquat coulis, but really, you had forbidden black rice risotto last night and you’d rather not get into a rut.

The new menu is full of familiar, well-prepared, and in some cases, exceptional dishes. Try the lamb shank on a bed of butternut squash risotto, or the naan BLT.

Rather than being a fine dining restaurant and an organic microbrewery, each element being distinct and separate, The Greenhouse has merged the two together to form a more comprehensive eatery in which both halves of the business reinforce one another. Call it an upscale brewpub, or organic comfort food, or environmentally friendly indulgent dining. Call it whatever you want, just remember to bring a growler.

The Greenhouse- 1595 Eureka Rd, Roseville (at the corner of Lead Hill)
Food*** Beer**** Service*** Atmosphere***