Over a year ago, I had my first experience with Masullo, the small, upscale pizzeria on Riverside Boulevard. I sung its praises on this here weblog  and vowed to return often to sup full on Masullo’s perfect pies.

Well, until last weekend I hadn’t been back once. Don’t ask me why. Life just has a way of moving right by you like a slick river of slurry underneath your feet as you stand in front of the slurry outflow of the slurry plant in slurry county USA. Slurry aside, I was a bit anxious about revisiting the pizza purveyor, worried my memories of the place wouldn’t quite add up to the reality. It turns out that my memories, instead of hyperbolizing the savory goodness that lies behind Masullo’s simple glass door, had dulled like…some…uh…thingamajig that gets dulled by slurry. Masullo is as fresh and vibrant as ever, pumping out pies that touch that little inner pizza child in all of us (and not in an SVU way).

Although I could be wrong. Maybe my memory hasn’t dulled. Maybe Masullo has actually gotten better than it was a yar ago. Maybe it’s in full stride turning out perfect summer salads of arugula, almonds, and lemon. Maybe cooking up the perfect oyster mushroom and mozzarella pie is an everyday occurence. Maybe tossing out the finest pizza dough, pie crust, and tart shells this side of the divide is a matter of routine. Or maybe is was the bottle of wine I drank.

Whatever the external forces at work here, it’s just good to know that Masullo is still doing things right — from individual press pots of after-dinner coffee, to exquisite yet basic summer desserts — and plans to do so for the foreseeable future. If it’s been too long for you (as it was me), drop by Masullo soon. You won’t be disappointed.

Masullo– 2711 Riverside Blvd (Open for dinner Mon-Sat at 5pm)

Food **** Service **** Atmosphere***

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