Author: sac-eats

Konditorei: Pastry Perfection

pathumwan-res-tlobby2Even if Albert and Gloria Kutternig didn’t make some of the most decadent morsels this side of Vienna, their story would still be worth telling.  You see – Albert is a world-class pastry chef trained in the finest kitchens in Austria; his wife, Gloria, is a globetrotting ballerina originally from the Philippines.  The pair met in Venezuela, traveled the world, got hitched in Austria, and wound up settling down in the quiet college town of Davis, California.  If this were a human interest piece, there would be more than enough interest to go around.  But alas, this is a culinary article, and this amazing pair isn’t being covered for the sweetness of their tale, but rather the sweetness of their pastries.

Konditorei Austrian Pastry Cafe in Davis creates treats in the Austrian tradition, which is quite different from the American tradition.  Gone are the syrupy sweet confections, buttercream frostings, corn syrup, and dense cakes that we come to expect from the neighborhood bakery.  Instead, these continental delicacies are crafted from light – almost ethereal – creams, sugars, fillings, sauces, and sweet cheeses.
Continue reading “Konditorei: Pastry Perfection”

The Koz is Back

jim-kozimor-96eGood news/bad news:

Good news first. Jim Kozimor, beloved sports announcing personality here in Sacramento, has gotten a chance at a second go-around with KHTK 1140. His new show, starting today, will air weekdays from 12-4 and will undoubtedly feature Kozimor’s candor, humor, and boyish good looks. Most of Sacramento was sad to see Kozimor laid off from the Maloof Sports and Entertainment broadcast team, and is happy to see Koz back on the air. While there’s no official name yet for the new Kozimor show, we at the ‘Rag suggest the following: “The Offical Report of Koz-ickstan,” or “The Kozy Korner”, or “The Sunshine Happy Goodtime Hour.”

Bad news. One of the reasons that this opportunity opened up in the first place is that the Mike O’Meara show, formerly the Don & Mike show, has been dropped from the Washington station from which O’Meara broadcasts. Many of us were devout listeners to the rowdy, smart, and media-centric show out of D.C. and will be sad to see it go, probably for good.

Barbera: A Local Treasure That Needs To Be Treasured

barberaIf we were to be honest with ourselves for just a moment, we’d readily admit that we live in the deep, enveloping cleavage of the bosom of great wine. Just barely peeking out over the plunging neckline of our beautiful valley, we can see some of the best vineyards in America staring back at us. And while Zinfandel, Cab, and Chardonnay get all the attention and all the praise, it is the simple Barbera that I seek out every time.

An Italian grape, Barbera is a foundational piece of many Italian table wines. Following suit, it’s been grown predominantly in the Central Valley as a blending grape in jug wines. (Shout out to my boy Carlo!) But in recent years, winemakers in Amador, El Dorado, and, to a lesser but by no means less successful extent, Paso Robles have taken the Barbera and turned it into an absolutely yummy single varietal that, in my mind, kicks the pants off of most zins, pinots, and cabs.

What does Barbera taste like? To be honest, it tastes like the cloudy mists of the firmament wrapped in bubble gum and dusted with cotton candy kisses. However, some have also described it as an inky dark, velvety wine with balanced berry sweetness and almost no tannins; it’s eminently drinkable and, like most Italian wines, very food friendly.  Take your pick of descriptions. Wine, after all, is a subjective beverage.

Where do you find good Barbera? One place you’ll rarely find it is on a restaurant’s wine list. The Firehouse, for example, whose wine list runs over 80 pages, has only a handful of Barberas from the U.S. and Italy. On last check, Biba’s wine list had two. L Wine Lounge, whose wine list admittedly is about variety and quality over quantity, carries only one.  Same with The Kitchen. Continue reading “Barbera: A Local Treasure That Needs To Be Treasured”

Food News: Marsupial Edition

kangaroo-meatThe newest burger at ‘Rag favorite Flaming Grill? Why, kangaroo of course. Kangaroo is low fat, dark, meaty, delicious, and full of all kinds of nutritional thingies that all strange meat claims to be full of. Hell, you can probably find some crackpot with a PhD to tell you that wombat meat delivers more X per serving than any other indigestible food.  But I digress.  The kangaroo burger is actually very good. Texture and flavor-wise I would say that it’s somewhere between a turkey burger and a lean beef burger. Highly recommended, but still not as good as FG’s ahi burger, which is the best in the state.

Gatsby’s, a ’30s diner (notice the apostrophe in front not between the numbers and “s”) whatever that is, recently opened on the corner of Alta Arden and Fulton. Check it out if you like a good tongue sandwich (I haven’t been there yet and couldn’t tell you if they sold tongue sandwiches or not).

David Berkley’s, purveyor of fine foods in the Pavilions shopping centre, is changing its name. As reported on this here fine ‘Rag a while ago, Mr. Berkley no longer owns the joint and will be removing his name from the masthead. The place, which checkout guy assures me will be unchanged, will simply be called “The Market at the Pavilions.” Talk about grabbing you by the short one’s, heh? That’s a name to remember. The Market. It’s about as remarkable as that place I go to work out, “The Gym.” Ok, it’s a pretentious load of wind, but I thought y’all should know in case you get confused next time you pull up to the ‘Vilions (ok, this apostrophe thing is getting out of hand) and don’t see the familiar name up on the marquee.

Squeeze Out

UPDATE: Bee reports that Squeeze Inn owner will move rather than try to fight lawsuit.  Let’s just hope it’s not to Roseville.

handicapped-adaChalk this one up in the category of “money grubbing, litigious douchebags ruining all of our fun.”  From the Bee:

Aficionados say the burger sold at the Squeeze Inn is perfection (including me), the consummate marriage of bun, ground meat and melted cheddar cheese. But a disabled woman has filed suit, saying the one-time coffeehouse with 450 square feet of space at 7918 Fruitridge Road (left) is anything but perfect. She says the kitschy confines where photos of fishermen, fighters and racers abound break federal law and violate her civil rights.

Here’s the really, really shitty part: the owner of the ‘Squeeze, Travis Hausauer, says that to make the fixes would cost so much that he’d be better closing his doors.

All the facts in the case, from the identification of the lawyer, Jason Singleton, as a wheelchair chaser who goes around finding small businesses that don’t meet all ADA guidelines then finding handicapped people to file suit against them, to the “victim” Kimberly Block, who is apparently a vegetarian (ok I made that up), make this case a grade-a shitball. But it brings this whole issue into regional and — thanks to that loud-mouthed Fieri guy — national focus.

Here’s what should happen and here’s what will happen: What should happen is that these type of ADA code issues be brought before the city or county and not be resolvable by lawsuits. If a disabled person has a problem with a business, they should complain to the city or county, an inspector would go out, issue an order to upgrade the property and/or fine the business. What will happen is that this case will be settled out of court, the lawyer will take the bulk of the settlement, and the “victim” will go about her tofu-eating life. Continue reading “Squeeze Out”

The Best Food Week in Sacramento

143-PoppyWine_highlight_prod_affiliate_148Two of my favorite events are coming together in the same week. Life is good.

All week, Sacramento Wine & Dine is taking place at restaurants throughout the region. From Andaloussia to Zocalo, restaurants are offering three and four course meals (usually with wine) at severely reduced prices. Check out their website for participating restaurants, menus, and reservations. Check out ‘Rag favorites Tuli Bistro, 58 Degrees, Enotria, Esquire Grill, Il Forno Classico, L, Slocum House, and The Firehouse. Don’t get me wrong, it’s still not cheap dining by any means, but if you’re holding out for a fine meal at a screaming price, it’s hard to beat.

The highlight of the week, however, is the Grape and Gourmet. An extension of the State Fair and the Sac Convention and Visitors Bureau, the G&G is the tits. Every wine there is a State Fair medal winner, every restaurant there brings out its best quick bites, every person there is beautiful and smells like an alpine meadow. This year marks the first year that the event moves off the grounds of Cal Expo and is to be held downtown at the Convention Center.

The event is on Thursday, July 9, starting at 5:30pm. Tix are $50 or less with a $5 coupon through this link. Come on down, look for me, or better yet, look for Poppy!

Pearl on the River Not Exactly a Gem

As a Sacramento resident, you can count on many things in the summer: at least one week of unbearable heat, a ridiculous amount of news reporting on that obvious heat, a budget impasse, and fairly weak riverside dining.

When you travel to any of the riverside joints that promise great views, relaxed atmospheres, and top-notch food, you usually leave about two-thirds satisfied. Whether it’s Chevy’s, Crawdad’s, Joe’s Crab Shack, Delta King, or any of the other dozen or so eateries on the city’s riverbanks, the food is not what you’re going for.

Unfortunately, Pearl on the River lives up to the standard set by its neighbors. Continue reading “Pearl on the River Not Exactly a Gem”

OneSpeed

The new casual fare restaurant from Waterboy owner Rick Mahan is finally open. Called OneSpeed, it’s been in the “coming-soon” stage since prohibition, which of course leads to pretty lofty expectations. Can Mahan live up? Can he deliver unlike another Sacramento over-hyped project, Hot Italian?

Damn straight he can. Stand and deliver he can. Give it to ya’ with a swift, casual kick to the culinary crotch he can. Continue reading “OneSpeed”

Meet the Master: Peet’s Tea Master Visiting Sacramento

Peets_Bottled_Iced_Tea_LineupIf you’re a loyal reader of this here ‘Rag, you know that we love Peet’s, and not just the coffee.  We love the stores, the employees, the posters, the immaculately clean restrooms, the not so subtle Bette Davis eyes that the fat guy at the Lyon’s Village store keeps giving me every time I go in – hell, we even love Peet’s teas, which is why we were excited to hear that Peet’s is launching a bottled tea line for retail sale and test marketing it in our fair city.  To help celebrate the launch, Peet’s “Tea Master” Eliot Jordan will be holding court at several Sacramento area locations over the next week, sharing his views, opinions, and — I’m quite sure — secrets about tea farming, harvesting, brewing, recycling, composting, and scrap-booking.  Here’s a schedule of Peet’s locations where you can find him in the next few weeks:

Wednesday, June 24- 9 to 10:30, 2oth & J, 1 to 2:30, Fountains at Roseville

Wednesday, July 1- 9 to 10:30 Alhambra and Folsom, 1 to 2:30, Pleasant Hill in Roseville

Wednesday, July 8- 9 to 11am, 20th & J

Family Gameshow Night Starts Tonight

Starting tonight at 7:00 is a great new event in Rancho Cordova, Family Gameshow Night. Win prizes, test your mettle at trivia, spelling bees and other great events.  As a sponsor, The Sac Rag is happy to guarantee your enjoyment of Family Gameshow Night.  If you don’t have a good time, your full admission price will be refunded by our writing staff.

Family Gameshow Night– 7:00

Village Green Amphiteater- Rancho Cordova- Admission is FREE